Cord-stitch-buttonhole machine.



No. 815,739. PATENTE/MAR. 20,1906."

y 'AQPRUVBR- y v 'CORD STITGHBUTVTONHOLE MACHINE.

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Amener P Ru'vnnifor NEWfroR-K.' NjrfoonpfsrlTQH-'BUTTQNMore. MAoH'INe; f

' 1 'Specification of'letters Patent. latented M archdwi 1906.

- Application mea .nneiglsoa sqritinalzeazaa To A1/'ZZ whemi may 0 0 eterni:

Be it-known that '1, ALBERT'PRUVER, a citi.

rvzen of the. United States, lresiding-at. New York, State ofNeW York, haveinventedcertain new and usefullmprovernents in Cord-lv 4Stitch.Buttonhole Machines, of which the following isa full, clear, and e'Xact description.

My invention relates tovv improvements in machines for making buttonholes, and par ti'cularly 'toa constriction for producing a cord-stitch effect more closely resembling a f hand-made buttonhole.

forniity.

i AThe object of the invention is to construct: a `machine on which 'buttonho'les may be' made to closely rese'rn-ble handwork With uni- Machines of this-.characterin the lpast have generally produced Hat purlstitch effects which are readily distinguished by the eye frorntliehand-'Inade product. My conby those skilled in the art.

The principles of the inventionare illus'- 7 trated in the accompanying threesh'eets of* drawings.

Figure lis a front'vi ew of arna'chine for earrying out the improvements of invention,

button-plate,f` through which the f needle passesand through which the gimp or cord is fedf' 4 isa sectional vieW of the same',

Fig. v5 is' a vie'Wol theunder side 'ofthe mecha anism adjacent theneedle position.v Fig. 6 is a detail of theright-hand spreader. Figs. 7" [and 8 are enlarged detail 'views'illustrating' 4o the stitch made vaccordingto my invention;

1 represents the arm` of the machine of usual construction. j 1

- '2 is the balance and driving Wheel.'l 3 is the horizontal shaftforfproducing the Aup-and-dovv'n movement of the needle.

' 41's the take-np-connection,'through whichr ythe vertical movement "of,y the' needle isftransl initted.

5 is the vertical shaft, geared the'hori-v zontal vshaft 3. f

-Gisa gage-cani carried-by shaft 5.

roller coperatingwith' the cam 6.

" I8 'isaverticalarinof'thebell-crank,conpledi 5 'by-the reach-rod 9 to the needleebarlfranie 10l struction enables the operator to produce ar gher'cord-like stitch,V as will be understood 2e is the cord'ffor which suitable guides .1 27 .is a passage for thecordjwhiclr isl `pret- Y berna/de. lis one armof a bell-crank lever,"hav1ng a:

' i and through the.- needle is'thrown or movedrst to the rightand hen to theleftA to produce, in conjunction Wj th thef/:ert-ical travelfronlright lifo-left being termed the 11-1 is the needle.'k 'I 12 is the top sillrorthread, provided with suitable tension devices, as is customary in ymachines `of this character.

' movernent, the zigzagstitch, the distance of Underneath the bed-of the'rnachine is lof cated .the Inechanis '.n for `controlling vthe for'producing the stitch.

13 's a 'cani carried'by the lowerje'nd. ofthe vertical shaft 5. "l "14 and 1 5 are the: twov arms o la,

lever operated by the' cam 1.3. `v" -1'6 is a pitrnan-rod connected't o the arm 15. A i 1 is a crank extending from the shaft'ov the thread'or silk'in coperation with theneed-ley looper-carri er jfraine 18.

. 19 is a long loopercarried tho'leftelia-lidia l sage the-bottom silk 'or thread'lQO.

- 21 and 22 -are the' rightandleft-hand 'spreaders, respectively, for cooperating' with 'or thread 1n.l the forniation f 1 the the' sill; stitch-. i 2 3 isa small llooper carried by therighthand branch of the carrier-fran'ie 18.

are yprovidedfo'r leading it 'to thefstitch position. "j A i i '25 is the button-plate, .suitably attached to the bed. of' the nia'chine benea th the clamp. feed-plate.

`26 1v the passagethreugli the hutten-for Ithe" needle andl top silk and alsex-the .bottomsilk as itisdrawn up to produce.'thestitch.`

erably located at thecenterline `ofthebutginip touching the inner'gsid'e vof the needle ojn its .outer stroke-thatlis, the lstrokey f`ir fthest'vroin'the center line-.ot the bu-ttfonliole about'tobe formed.

Y '2s isere @opti the beata, whichtwins 'ja delivery-.surface fon'the cord, against the surface o'ithe goods in y"liicli the' stitch is to branch of the frame' 418 and providing ar pasbutton, Which-*guides the clanxp-pltieil as 11o Ilm) the clamp is fed back and torth during the formation ot the stitch.

32 32 represent the` bottom arms or jaws of the cla-nip tor holding the cloth or goods adjacent to the stitching-point. The upper arms of the clamp are not shown; but it will be understood that a clamp of suitable construction would be employed with-proper operating mechanism; Other suitable mechanism is providedfor carrying the clamp and goods around the button, as is customary in machines ot this general character. `The top '28 ofthe button is on a level with or slightly above the upper surface of the lower jaws 32, so that the cord 24 is pressed against the sur- -faee' ofthe goods.

38l is a projectingroller carried by the j fra-me 1S and adapted to cooperate with the shoulder 351 ot the right-hand spreader as the traine' is moved to the right for moving the point yof the spreader and pulling the bottom silk from the looperlQ at the proper moment.

is a hook-like finger on the extremity ot the spreader 21, which catches the bottom lsilk or thread.

' spreader, which is provided Jfor pushing the ing caught under the looper.

top silk back onto the long looper 19 and preventing it from being caught on the hook 35 in case the loop of the top silk has not been moved far enough to the left on the looper 19.

Thisguard projects beyond the point et the hook 35'; but the bottom silk is easily eaugli't by the hook, since at the moment when it is desired that it shall be caughtthe bottom silk is drawn over at an angle incliiiing to the right, so as to bring it into contact with the hook. i

37 represents la fragment only of the usual needle-guard to prevent the needle from be- The end of the guard is broken'oii` in order to shew the mechanism more particularly involved in this invention.

A ,38 is a shoulder `Jformed on the left-hand spreader 22, `with which the projecting roller 33 of the trame 18 coacts on the left-hand i stroke ot the trame.

o more ot j v v i thanl tliaileltdiand spreader pulls out of the I 39 is a hook-like finger carried by the spreaderl 22 for eoacting with the top silk or thread at the'proper'moment when it .has been lbrought over by the small looper 23. The two spreaders are so constructed and pro- .left-hand-spreader hook. The comparison spreaders will be seen from the dottedV lines .in Fig. 5. Therighthand spreader pulls out i the bottomsilktrom the looper 19 cartillaaridi thus allows more slack,`so that the knot is not pulled over to the left on the inside edge of the .buttonhole (or buttonholeline) on the left upstroke of the needle,l but is `between the stroke of the two lett underneath the center of the gimp. The cord-hole 2T is so arranged that as the material is being led ,the right-hand side ot the needle on its lett or outside stroke just gramos rthe left-hand side of the cord, thus drawing the cord close up to the center of the buttonhole and making the stitch stand .up high above the cloth. Y

The result of operation of my improved mechanism is illustrated in Figs. 7 and By my invention l am eiiabledto use a coarser silk or 'thread,"aii rlO or even "A on the top and a C or D on the bottom,

making a. stronger` buttonhole and one which looks exactly like a hand-made stitch.

The left-hand downward stroke of the nee dle is arranged to take place just to `the lett ot the axisotthe butt-onliole and touching the left-hand edge oi the gimp, and the tension draws the silk after the needle is retracted over to the right, so as to leave a space between tlie two lines ot stitches, through which the cutting knife may be extended. 'lhe stitches are made in the cloth or material bel h tore cutting. The bight ol` thestitehis quite 36 isa guard projection carried by the narrow and makes it desirable to eut after the stitching is completed. The very narrow bight also tends to bring the cord-like edge ofthe stitch up on top rather ythan allowing it to tall along the inside edge of the cord.' This bringing of the cord-like ellect upon the top oic thegiinp is produced by the extreme throw ot the right-hand spreader and the height lot the button.

The advantages of this instruction will IOO be apparent to those who `are skilled in this` j art.

1. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, a needle for carrying the top silk, means 'tor opeiatin f the needle, a button having an opening tor the'passage of the needle and a passage for the gimp adjacent thereto, means for guiding a bottom silk beneath the button, means for guiding gimp to the passage in the. button, and mechanism cooperating with the. top and bottoni Silks for forming a knot di rectly beneath the center line of thel gimp. 2. In a buttoiiholestitching machine, means -for carrying the top and bottoni silks, a pair of spreaders for normally cooperating with the top and bottom silks respectively, mechanism for operating said spreaders and throwing the spreader which cooperates with thev bottoni silk a greater distance than the spreader which co erates with the top silk.

' 3. In a butto'i iole-stitching machine, means Jfor carryingthe top and bottom silks, a button having a passage for the gimp and a point of delivery for the gimp arranged to press the gimp against the material being op erated upon, a pair of spreaders tor normally cooperating with the top and bottom silks respectively, mechanism. for voperatingsaid ISO coperates with the bottom silk a greater distance than the spreader which cooperates with the top silk.

4 In a b uttonhole-stitching machine, means for carrying the/top and bot-tom silks, a pair of spreaders for normally cooperating with the top and bottom silks respectively, mechanism for' operating isaid spreaders and throwing the spreader which coperates with thetop silk, and a button having a passage for the needle andsilks and a passage Jfor the gimp located to deliver the gimp touching the inner side of the needle on its outer stroke.

5. In a bnttonhole-stitching machine, a neve-l.

dle for carrying the top silk, means for operating the needle, .a button. having an opening for the passage of the needle and an opening for the passage ofthe gimp adjacent thereto,

van oscillatory frame, a long looper mounted thereon for carrying the bottom silk and the loop of the top silk, a short looper mounted on said frame for coperating with the top silk, a pair of spreaders operated by, said frame, one vof said :.spreaders having a hook cooperating with the bottom silk and having a guard portion extending beyond the hook for pushing back the'loop of the top silk onto spreader which coperates With the bottom'silk a greater distance' thany the i Witnesses:

on said Jframe for cooperating With the top silk,` a kpair of spreaders operated by said frame, one of said spre'aders havinga hook coperating With the bottom silk and having a guard portion extending beyond the hook for pushing back the loop of the top silk ontov the long looper, the other spreader having a f hook yfor coperating Withthe top silk, the two spreaders being so proportioned that the top silk, a short looper mounted -f hook of the spreader which cooperates With the bottom silk has a substantially greater throw than the hook of lthe spreader Which coperates Withlthe top silk forthe purpose described.' A v l ALBERT PRUVER.

L. VREEIQAND, Ron'rf. S. ALLYN. 

